A stainless chimney range hood centered on a white tiled wall.

Start with what you own

Range hood
types,
told apart.

Steam from the same pot of pasta can rise into four quite different hoods. A wall-mount chimney hood sends it up a tall stainless cover to a duct, an under-cabinet hood works in the few inches below the cupboards, an island hood hangs from the ceiling with open air on every side, and an insert sits hidden inside a custom wood or plaster hood with its blower sometimes out on the roof. Knowing which one is yours narrows the search before the technician arrives.

(844) 398-3217

Mon–Sat, 8am–8pm

  • 4 types
  • Serviced in place
  • What each one costs

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What a repair
usually costs.

Set the repair against what a new range hood would really take to put up, not just its price on a shelf. A chimney hood needs its brackets, duct collar and tile cut to line up again; an island model comes down from the ceiling frame with two people; an insert has to fit the opening a cabinetmaker built around it. Filters, lamps, switches, dampers, capacitors and heat sensors are small next to that, and even a blower or a board is usually the better choice on those three. A basic recirculating under-cabinet hood is the exception: it is quick to swap, so on an older one with a failed motor the technician shows you both numbers side by side.

Range hood diagnostic visit: A range hood is priced once its fan, its controls and its air path have been tested.
Read the full cost guide
RepairRelative costNotes
Blower motor, run capacitor, bearings or blower wheel moderate to highest A capacitor or a degreased wheel sits near the bottom of this band. A complete motor, a twin-blower assembly or a fan that lives in the attic or on the roof climbs to the top, with the reach adding labor of its own.
Rocker or slide switch, key panel, touch strip or wall keypad low to moderate A mechanical switch block on a basic hood is a small part. A glass touch strip, a membrane panel for a pro-style canopy or a remote keypad with its cable run through the cabinet moves one step up.
Control board with its relays and power supply moderate The board is the dearest electronic part in most hoods, and one for an imported or premium liner can take time to arrive. Clearing the grease or heat that cooked the old one is part of the same job.
Lamps, sockets, lens covers or the LED driver low Lamps and lenses are inexpensive. A scorched socket set, a low-voltage transformer or an LED driver hidden above the filters costs more, mostly in the time it takes to reach and test them.
Mesh or baffle filters, charcoal pads and the grease channel lowest Cleaning and refitting the filters with a new set of charcoal pads is the smallest job on this page. Replacement baffles for a wide pro-style canopy, or grease that has already reached the hood body, add to it.
Backdraft damper, duct joints or the outside cap flap low to moderate Freeing or replacing a damper at the top of the canopy is a small part and a short visit. Resealing joints above a ceiling, replacing a jammed wall or roof cap, or rerouting a choked run is quoted on its own once it has been seen.
Rattles, hum and vibration: wheel balance, mounts, gaskets and screws low to moderate Tightening loose panels, reseating filters and adding gaskets costs little beyond the visit. A new motor mount, a replacement wheel or bearings moves it up, and a mounting that has worked loose from the wall or ceiling is priced on sight.
Downdraft lift motor, drive gears, limit switches or its blower moderate A limit switch or a cleaned track is modest. A lift motor, a drive screw assembly or the blower under the counter costs more, and the cabinet below has to be emptied to reach them.
Heat sensor or thermostat disc and its lead low The sensor is a small part fitted from the underside of the canopy. When the board that reads it has also failed, the job joins the control board row instead.
A family cooking together under a stainless range hood in a bright kitchen.
For the heart of your home.

Questions about
the types.

Which range hoods does this site cover?
Wall-mount chimney hoods, under-cabinet hoods, island hoods hanging from the ceiling, and inserts or liners built into custom wood or plaster hoods, along with pop-up downdraft vents behind a cooking surface. A microwave that also works as a hood belongs to our microwave site, and commercial kitchen hoods with fire-suppression systems are outside what we do.
Is an island hood repaired differently from a wall-mount one?
Mostly in how it is reached. An under-cabinet hood is a short step up, a chimney hood needs its cover lifted off, an island hood hangs from the ceiling with its wiring and duct above, and an insert may have its blower out on the roof or in the attic. The blower, the capacitor, the switches and the lights work the same way in all of them.
Do downdraft vents break in their own ways?
They share the blower, the switches and the filters, but the vent itself rises and falls on a small motor and a gear or a track, and the blower usually sits in the cabinet below. A vent that stops rising or stalls halfway is usually that lift mechanism, or a utensil dropped into the slot, rather than the fan.
What about my range hood helps the technician most?
Which kind it is (wall-mount, under-cabinet, island, a custom insert or a downdraft), who made it, roughly how old it is, whether it vents outside or recirculates, and where the blower sits. With that we know which parts to bring and whether a tall ladder or a second person is needed.

Back to your everyday

Let’s get your range hood working again.

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